Become your own florist by designing and planting a cutting garden. You'll not only have a ready source for fresh-cut flowers but you'll also add color to your yard and a good place to try out new plants. Mid to late spring is the time to plant for a steady supply of flowers in summer and fall. Master gardener Chris Dawson explains the process from start to finish:
Your first decision is where to put it. When planning a location and shape for your cutting garden:
- Choose a space that's out of the way of backyard activities and that makes a nice backdrop.
- Keep the size manageable. A 10- by 10-foot plot requires reasonable maintenance. Start small; you can always add more space later.
- Pick an area that has well-drained soil and gets 6 to 8 hours of sunlight.
- Determine the shape you want, and find a design that blends with the character of your yard.
If you don't already have a separate planting bed, create one by removing a section of your lawn. Measure the length and width of the area, and place stakes every two to three feet to rough in the general shape. Lay a garden hose to outline the shape created by the stakes, and then spray along one side of the hose with landscapers' spray paint. Remove the hose and stakes to reveal your outline.
You can remove grass in one of several ways. Cutting down below the roots with a sharp spade is strenuous work, but it will strip off the sod. Or you can rototill the area, but be sure to remove all clumps of grass because any left behind will grow back.
A more effective way to kill grass is to use a non-selective herbicide. Glyphosphate is an herbicide that kills all types of plants, including grasses. Grass absorbs the chemical through its leaves, and in about 10 days, the grass is dead--roots and all. Glyphosphate is safe for a new garden plot because after it kills the grass, it binds to the soil and becomes inactive. A gallon of pre-mixed herbicide is plenty for a 10- by 10-foot area.
Use caution when spraying any herbicides.
- Carefully read and follow the label instructions.
- Use the spray applicator that comes with the product.
- Wear protective clothing--shoes or work boots, long pants, long sleeves, non-absorbent gloves, and goggles.
- Spray only when the temperature is between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, or the grass won't absorb the herbicide.
- Spray on calm days. Any wind will carry the herbicide to other plants or grass, possibly killing them.
- Do not spray if rain is forecast in the next 24 hours because the herbicide needs to dry on the leaves.
- Keep the nozzle close to the grass and spray thoroughly. The grass should look very wet when you're done.
- Walk backwards as you spray and avoid stepping on areas you've already sprayed. Your shoes can carry the herbicide to other areas of your yard.
- Close the nozzle tightly when you are finished. Store any leftover herbicide in the original container and out of reach of children.
- Dispose of empty containers according to label instructions.
- Keep pets and children away from this area for at least a day, until the herbicide has completely dried.
In the next 7 to 10 days while the herbicide is working, take time to plan your garden. Create a diagram of the space on graph paper, with each square representing one square foot. This blueprint will help you determine placement of plant groupings and how many plants you'll need. If you have a wide shape, create an access path through the middle that's about 12 to 18 inches wide.
For the most efficient use of space and ease of harvesting, group species together. Draw planting "clouds" in various shapes and sizes and place them randomly within your diagram. Use the diagram to determine the approximate number of plants needed for each planting cloud. You can enlarge or reduce the size of the clouds when you start planting.
Garden catalogs and books are a good way to create lists of the different plants you want for cut flowers. Use a variety of annuals and perennials so you won't have to replant every year. Mix up textures, such as flowers with petals and ones with spikes, or delicate flowers and broad, large ones. Select colors that complement your home's decor and that have a pleasing fragrance. And choose varieties that bloom all season and are suited to your local zone.
Also consider how your cutting garden will be viewed: from the front only or from all sides. This makes a difference in arranging flower groupings by height. For a front view garden, place tall varieties in back. For a garden seen from all sides, put tall plants in the middle.
Dawson adds these plants to his cutting garden:
Tall perennials
- 'Becky' Shasta daisy (Zones 5-9) blooms from June through August.
- 'Coronation Gold' yarrow (Zones 3-8) blooms in early to mid-summer and dries well for fall arrangements.
- 'Bluebird' asters produce masses of color for fall cutting.
Medium-height perennials
- Baby's breath (Zones 3-9) is a common filler in arrangements and blooms early to mid-summer. One plant forms a nearly shrub-like plant with loads of flowers.
- Liatrus (Zones 4-9) has purple flowers that bloom in early summer. Six plants will produce enough blooms for cutting.
- Verbascum 'Southern Charm' (Zones 5-8) forms branched spikes with hundreds of small florets in buff, lavender, cream, and rose.
Low-growing perennial:
Chrysanthemum is a dependable, bushy flower that blooms in late summer and fall.
Bulbs
- 'Stargazer' lily (Zones 3-8) has a wonderful fragrance and showy blooms. Six bulbs will produce ample blooms.
- Gladiolus (Zones 7-10) can be planted between annuals because they won't need their full space for a few years.
Annuals
- Lisianthus, or prairie rose, lasts 2 weeks in a vase. 'Lavender Rose' grows about 20 inches tall and blooms all summer.
- Snapdragons have 12-inch-long flower spikes that produce more flowers after being cut.
- 'Victoria Blue' salvia has blue 8-inch spikes that bloom all summer. Hang them upside down to dry and add to a fall arrangement.
- Zinnias grow easily and quickly from seed, with germination in five to seven days. Plant them on the outside perimeter of the garden for good air movement to prevent powdery mildew.
Once the grass has died and turned brown, you're ready to prepare your cutting garden. First, be sure the soil is dry; large, hard clumps of wet soil can ruin the area. Break up the sod by tilling the area in one direction and then in the opposite direction. Rake out large clumps of grass. If your garden has a subsoil of clay, improve the soil's drainage by adding a couple of inches of peat moss. Sphagnum peat moss is a good amendment for clay and also improves water-holding capacity for sandy soils. Work in the peat using a rototiller, shovel, or garden fork. Finally, distribute an even layer of 10-10-10 complete analysis fertilizer throughout the garden bed. Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium help plants grow healthy with more vibrant blooms.
Now you're ready to use your diagram to lay out the plants in your garden bed.
- Use stakes to mark the general location of each planting area and the path.
- Use a hoe to draw the outline of each planting cloud and the path, and then remove the stakes.
- Set out the plants and make adjustments to the clouds as needed.
- For the path, place flat stones a footstep apart, pushing them slightly into the ground. Flagstone or pre-cast stepping stones make an attractive, level path.
- Plant the flowers from the back of garden to the front, or from the middle outwards.
- Add a two-inch layer of mulch to the entire garden, including the spaces between and around the path stones.
General tips for successful planting:
- Be sure to wait until the last average frost date in your area before planting sensitive annuals.
- Don't worry if transplants get a little droopy; a good drink of water will perk them up again. Plant flowers on a cloudy day or in late afternoon. Plants need a few hours in the ground to adjust and soak up water before they are in direct sun.
- Water transplants well to promotes strong root systems, and keep seedlings moist until they are established. Once a week, water the bed deeply, thoroughly saturating the top six inches of soil.
- Encourage annuals to bloom by feeding them a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks.
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